Today, we're going to conduct a Chili Crisp Topping Comparison of three popular versions. Each is conceived from a different culinary point of view, and each by a different maker. As such, it won't necessarily be an apples to apples comparison.
Chili Crisp is a popular condiment primarily found in Asian cuisines. At its most basic, it consists of a chili-infused oil filled with crunchy fried aromatics like onion, garlic and spices. You can read all about it here.
In the context of tinned fish, chili crisp has been shown to pair well with smoked fish such as salmon. It has the potential to pair equally well with smoked mackerel. One cannery, Fishwife, and one chili crisp brand, Fly By Jing, have even collaborated to produce the smoky, sweet, salty and savory synergy that is Fishwife Smoked Salmon with Sichuan Chili Crisp.
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We'll begin our comparison with the original, Lao Gan Ma.
Lao Gan Ma Spicy Chili Crisp
In 1984, Chinese restaurateur Tao Huabi is said to have invented, and in 1997 began the first commercial production of chili crisp in Guizhou under the Lao Gan Ma ("Old Godmother") brand. It quickly became popular and, eventually, a Chinese pantry staple.
If you go looking for it, note that some Asian markets carry the product with the Chinese labeling. So, you may have to look at the back of the jar for an applied English label to make sure what you're buying.
It is soybean oil-based. The main flavor profile is provided by:
- Chili flakes
- Crunchy fried onion
- Fermented soybean
- MSG
- Salt
- Sugar
Lao Gan Ma Chili Crisp is heavy on the crisp. It has a much higher ratio of crunchy components to oil than do the others. It also lacks the heat of Sichuan peppercorn. So, even though it's called "spicy", it is relatively quite mild. Its flavor profile skews heavily toward the onion.
Most chili crisps direct you to stir the contents before serving because the crunchy parts settle to the bottom. This is less-so with Lao Gan Ma because it is more crunch than oil. The serving size listed is a hefty two tablespoons.
Lao Gan Ma also markets a similar product called Fried Chili in Oil. Basically, it removes the fermented soybeans and replaces the onion with peanuts for a different kind of crunch.
Fly By Jing Sichuan Chili Crisp
Fly By Jing Sichuan Chili Crisp is a spicier take on the condiment. It is based on a blend of rapeseed (canola) and soybean oils. It's "original" version packs a significant amount of heat due to the Sichuan peppercorn content, which can have a numbing effect on the lips and tongue. This effect is considered a positive. Its flavor is also more complex than either the Lao Gan Ma or the S&B.
The main flavor profile is provided by:
- Dried Chili Pepper
- Preserved Black Bean
- Garlic
- Sesame Oil
- Salt
- Shallots
- Ginger
- Mushroom Powder
- Sichuan Pepper
- Seaweed Powder
- Spices
The ratio of oil to crunchy bits is higher in the Fly By Jing. The solids are also much finer than the other two compared here. As such, you'll really want to stir it up well, right before serving. Each and every time you spoon some out, in fact. The serving size is a spare one teaspoon. You'll likely use more than that. Maybe not two tablespoons, but certainly more than just a teaspoon.
You may encounter an earlier version of the Original label, which, as of this writing, is still within "sell by" dating. It contains a considerable amount of verbiage about the creator, Jing "Jenny" Gao, her name and her life experience. The updated label has eliminated that and the ambiguity of the former, now stating "Original" clearly.
In addition to the Original, there are also Sweet & Spicy, Xtra Crunchy and Xtra Spicy versions. Original and Sweet & Spicy are considered "medium". The Xtra Crunchy is "mild", and the Xtra Spicy is "very spicy". Notably, but inconspicuously, MSG is absent in all versions, its umami role replaced by mushroom powder.
S&B Crunchy Garlic with Chili Oil
S&B Crunchy Garlic with Chili Oil is from Japan. While similar in many ways to traditional Chinese chili crisps, it has its own sensibility that is distinctively Japanese.
It is corn oil based. As expected, the main flavor here is garlic. As the label notes, heat-wise it is mild. A "spicy" version also exists. Here, the crunch to oil ratio is somewhere midway between the Lao Gan Ma and the Fly By Jing.
The complete flavor profile is provided by:
- Chili pepper
- Fried garlic
- Sesame oil
- Monosodium glutamate
- Onion powder
- Salt
- Sugar
- Soy sauce powder
- Chili paste
- Fried onion
- Almond
- Ground sesame seeds
Of the three in our comparison, the S&B Crunchy Garlic with Chili Oil was the crunchiest. The other two require purchasing a variation in order to replicate this quality. It is also noticeably saltier than the other two. And that's not necessarily a bad thing. The serving size listed is a measly 1 teaspoon. You'll definitely use more.
Revised Formula
A "new formula" of the S&B Mild version removes the almond in favor of extra onion and an adjustment of the ratios of some of the other ingredients. It has the same UPC code, so it is a replacement, not a new variant. It will also be about 11% lower in sodium. Fortunately, it doesn't appear to detract from the satisfying level of crunch.
Sodium Levels
Sodium levels vary widely, both from brand to brand, and even between versions of the same brand. Let's take a look at the three in our review, as well as some other popular brands. Adjusting the serving sizes of each to equal the 30 grams (2 Tbl. = 1 oz.) of the Lao Gan Ma, we have sodium levels as follows:
| Brand/Style | Sodium per 30gm./1 oz. |
|---|---|
| MOMOFUKU Chili Crunch by David Chang | 150 mg. |
| Mr Bing Chili Crisp, Mild/Spicy | 150 mg./150 mg. |
| Fusion Select Chili Crisp Oil | 280 mg. |
| Lao Gan Ma Spicy Chili Crisp | 340 mg. |
| Fly By Jing Sichuan Chili Crisp, Original | 390 mg. |
| Momoya Chili Oil with Fried Garlic (Taberu Layu) | 480 mg. |
| Lao Gan Ma Fried Chili in Oil | 510 mg. |
| S&B Crunchy Garlic with Chili Oil, Mild (Original/New Formula) | 540 mg./480 mg. |
| S&B Crunchy Garlic with Chili Oil, Spicy | 630 mg. |
| Lee Kum Kee Chiu Chow Style Chili Crisp Oil | 840 mg. |
You probably won't use 2 tablespoons of any of them at one sitting, more than likely just half that.
Tips For Best Enjoyment
In all cases, you'll want to:
- Stir to re-mix contents before serving
- Use a clean spoon to prevent contamination
- Refrigerate after opening to maintain freshness
- Use before the "best by" date
- Observe labeling for sensitivity or food allergies to ingredients like nuts, seeds, MSG
In Summary
There you have it, a rundown of three of the most popular Chili Crisp Toppings. Each different in their own way, all delicious. We liked all three, each for different reasons.
- The Lao Gan Ma, for its mild flavor, onion-y umami and copious fried aromatics
- The Fly By Jing, for its complexity and numbing Sichuan peppercorn heat
- The S&B, for its supremely crunchy garlic and saltiness
- We also tried the S&B Spicy for comparison, and liked how its heat kicked its mild counterpart up a notch
More To Explore
Other widely-sold brands you may see include:
- MOMOFUKU Chili Crunch by David Chang
- Fusion Select Chili Crisp Oil
- Lee Kum Kee Chiu Chow Style Chili Crisp Oil
- Momoya Chili Oil with Fried Garlic Taberu Layu
- Mr Bing Chili Crisp
Each has its own take on flavor profile, texture, heat, salt and umami.