Today, we're going to conduct a Chili Crisp Topping Comparison of three popular versions. Each is conceived from a different culinary point of view, and each by a different maker. As such, it won't necessarily be an apples to apples comparison.
Chili Crisp is a popular condiment primarily found in Asian cuisines. At its most basic, it consists of a chili-infused oil filled with crunchy fried aromatics like onion, garlic and spices. You can read all about it here.
In the context of tinned fish, chili crisp has been shown to pair well with smoked fish such as salmon. It has the potential to pair equally well with smoked mackerel. One cannery, Fishwife, and one chili crisp brand, Fly By Jing, have even collaborated to produce the smoky, sweet, salty and savory synergy that is Fishwife Smoked Salmon with Sichuan Chili Crisp.
Affiliate link, earns commissions
We'll begin our comparison with the original, Lao Gan Ma.
Lao Gan Ma Spicy Chili Crisp
In 1984, Chinese restaurateur Tao Huabi is said to have invented, and in 1997 began the first commercial production of chili crisp in Guizhou under the Lao Gan Ma ("Old Godmother") brand. It quickly became popular and, eventually, a Chinese pantry staple.
I've visited Whole Foods probably 20 times in the last year, mostly looking for tinned fish and taking advantage of sales when they occurred. Occasionally, I notice this Scout Tuna Snack Kit, but haven't given it much thought. Given the recent uptick in my interest in chili crisp, I decided to take a chance and see what it was about.
Initial impression upon opening the can carton: Intrigued.
Peeling back the plasticized paper covering, we find a tin lodged halfway down the carton, and a small bio-degradable spork. Underneath that, we find a crumpled packet containing, we assume, the chili crisp topping. There's a definite, but strangely familiar aroma emanating from it.
Opening the can, we find it packed nicely full of yellowfin tuna. It has a fresh tuna aroma. A taste of it is mild, but with the slightest metallic taste tuna sometimes has. It seems like there's a good bit of headroom filled with oil, listed as EVOO.
The topping is in a compostable plastic envelope, which defies being torn open by hand. You could try, but if you succeeded, I'd bet you'd be vacuuming most of it up off the floor.
Creating the Snack
The instructions say to spork the tuna from the can into the container and add the "desired amount of olive oil for healthy fats and flavor". I thought it wouldn't require the entire contents of the can, but in the end, I added it all. In retrospect, I should have just dumped the can over into the carton.
In my haste, I neglected to photograph the resulting mix, so here's a photo courtesy of reddit user "Grouchy_Scallion_230".
I cautiously mixed the topping in a little at a time, as it seemed like a lot for the amount of tuna. I stopped at about two thirds of the packet. And I continued to try to identify the aroma.
Most of the topping's "crunch" is courtesy of coarsely crushed peanuts. The rest consists of aromatics including chili flakes, dried onion, dried chili pepper, cumin seed, dried sichuan pepper, candied ginger, sugar and star anise powder.
Main Takeaways
Once mixed in, the flavors of the topping overwhelmed the taste of the tuna. Since the topping didn't really have time to marinate in the oil, the impression was somewhat akin to the raw taste that powdered "instant" mixes can have.
I found myself wondering why I didn't just add my own chili crisp to a can of a favorite mid-level tuna instead. Instead of $7, I could have spent more like $3 to $4, maybe even less.
I also thought that, regardless of my opinion of the product, it needed something else, like to be eaten on bread, with crackers or over rice.
Other Thoughts
Maybe marketing or product development decided it was the way to go, but I kept thinking there was a lot of empty space in the carton. And that it could have been eliminated by slightly different dimensions and a re-thinking of the order of packing. That the tuna/topping mix ultimately took up merely about a third of the carton only served to reinforce that impression.
Oh, and I finally figured out what the aroma reminded me of. There's a large international market I frequent, which offers products from a wide variety of cultures. Among them are a vast array of packaged spices and seasonings in bulk. Altogether, they contribute to a particular aroma permeating the air there.
Not competitively priced at Amazon.
Brand: Scout Canning Description: Scout Tuna Snack Kit - Chili Crisp Species: Yellowfin tuna Country of Origin: Mexico Skin/Bones: No/No Net Wt: 4.6 oz. Price Range: $7
I've been waiting for this Fishwife Smoked Salmon with Sichuan Chili Crisp to come back on sale again at Whole Foods. Last time, it was out of stock by the time I got there. This time, there was exactly one can on the shelf the second day of the sale period. At $15, it's probably one of, if not the most expensive cans of tinned fish you're likely to find on a shelf at a local store. Was it worth it, even at 30% off for Amazon Prime members? Let's find out.
Initial impression upon opening the can: 4.9/5.
A fraction deducted for that empty space at the bottom that could have had more fish in it. Otherwise, the appearance and smoky aroma are enticing. A taste of a pinch of the fish is reminiscent of their Slow Smoked Mackerel. The meat is al dente, as one would expect of authentically smoked fish. I am also already making a mental comparison to the Wildfish Cannery Habanero Smoked Coho Salmon I had tried previously.
Diving In
The carton suggests serving over rice, so that's what I did. Dumped out, you can see some skin and all the goodies from the chili crisp.
If you're familiar with chili crisp, you'll know that Fly By Jing Chili Crisp, like this tinned salmon, is also one of the most expensive of its kind you're likely to find on a local store shelf. It's seen at around $10 to $14, typically, for a small 6 ounce jar.
As I worked my way through the bowl, I found myself dividing the fish into ever smaller pieces, trying to extend the premium experience out as long as possible. As with their slow smoked mackerel, there is a balance of sweet, salty, savory and heat. Except, this time, the heat is kicked up to the next level by the chili crisp. As I finished, I noted the slight numbness to the lips Sichuan peppercorn is known to cause.
Other Thoughts
One caveat. Although it doesn't seem that high, the sodium content is whopping 1050 mg. for the single serving can.
Regardless, this was really good. But I'm just going to have to wait for a sale to buy more. $15 for 3.2 ounces translates to $75 a pound for smoked salmon. In the meantime, I know I can come quite close to the experience with their smoked mackerel. It normally sells in the $9 range. Or the Wildfish Habanero Smoked Coho for $10. Unfortunately, Whole Foods doesn't stock either.
Brand: Fishwife Tinned Seafood Co. Description: Smoked Salmon with Fly By Jing Chili Crisp Species: Atlantic salmon Country of Origin: Norway Source: FAO27, Northeast Atlantic Skin/Bones: Yes/No Net Wt: 3.2 oz. Price Range: $15
