lemon Archives - Sardeenz!

El Raño Wild Caught Sardines with Lemon Essence

I had read you could sometimes find sardines at Home Goods stores. These El Raño Wild Caught Sardines with Lemon Essence would be my third such find there. The store has a "gourmet foods" aisle, and it's typically crammed full with a hodgepodge of jarred sauces, olive oils, snacks, condiments and sundry other such items.

You really have to stoop and dig sometimes, as none of it is what you'd call "merchandised". And you kind of have to watch the pricing, too. Sometimes their marked-down price is slightly above that which you can find elsewhere, if you know where to look.

This happened to be a promotional package that included a ceramic serving dish. The boxed tin was nestled in the dish, and all was slipped into a cardboard sleeve. A dot of glue kept things from sliding apart, but it also damaged the carton upon opening. I tried to find an image of an identical carton, but to no avail. It seems like many canneries change their packaging more often than their underwear. So, I did a little quick cut-and-paste photo fixing.

Initial impression upon opening the can: 4/5.

Not very pretty. It's three quite large pilchards (allegedly) crammed into the deep can. I see spine and bones protruding from one, and there are quite a number of scales. And at least one set of pelvic fins. A far cry from the pretty, silver-bellied specimens found in better tins.

There is an initial subtle aroma of lemon which quickly dissipates. There is no fishy aroma to be detected. A sip of the oil takes a moment to echo the lemon flavor.

Here We Go

Getting the first one out was difficult, and it had to be broken up to extract it. The large spine, as well as some residual entrails I'm not used to dealing with, I found to be a distraction. I scraped off some more scales and resumed my assessment.

There was a tablespoon or more of oil (listed only as vegetable oil) left in the can. I poured most of it over everything in hopes of maximizing any experience of lemon flavor.

I noted the meat was not dry, but it flaked in a way I'm not used to with sardines. Its texture was a bit like some other kind of fish (tilapia?). Another distraction. But I soldiered on.

The heat of the rice did let the lemon flavor bloom a bit, and I found at least that part of things pleasant. There was no actual lemon in the can, so "natural lemon flavor" is all I have to go on. The salt balance was OK, neither too high nor too low.

Main Takeaways

Large fish, with odd texture
Too much in the way of scales and other unpleasantries
Distractions interfered with enjoyment

I had higher hopes for these. The El Raño label is under the umbrella of Conservas Artesanas Gallegas, which also produces La Narval and Maruxaina. But it appears to be their "value" brand.

Here's a view of the full package and the serving dish.

The cost was $8, with the store tag saying "compare at $10". The dish is nothing special. But for cheap, who cares? If it had been $8 for just the tin of fish, however, I wouldn't have considered it a bargain.

Amazon sells a double-pack of a small sardines version of these at a tempting price, but I am ambivalent about risking the $12 for two smallish cans only to be potentially disappointed again.

Brand: Conservas Artesanas Gallegas / El Raño
Description: Wild caught sardines with lemon essence
Species: Sardina pilchardus
Country of Origin: Spain
Source: FAO34, Eastern Central Atlantic
Skin/Bones: Yes/Yes
Net Wt: 4.2 oz.
Price Range: $10

Wild Planet Sardines in EVOO with Lemon, Part 2

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A recent review elsewhere of Natural Catch Sardines in Organic EVOO got me thinking about these Wild Planet Sardines in EVOO with Lemon again. The Natural Catch are sourced from Viet Nam, and are not true pilchards, but rather another species endemic to that part of the world. These Wild Planet are, as well, and are processed in Thailand. Let's see what I think this time.

Initial impression upon opening the can: 4.5/5.

The first time around, 7 months ago, I wasn't too impressed, overall. I really didn't get any sense of smoke, and very little lemon. This time, a sip of the oil revealed a subtle hint of smoke, so being labeled lightly smoked is apropos. Again, I'm moved to comment there should be a labeling requirement to say "with oil" when it's apparent the packing liquid is only partly oil. I note that water is included as an ingredient here, listed just after the EVOO.

The appearance and aroma are about the same as last time. They are scale-free as touted, but there are some pelvic fins still attached. The aroma is neutral, not smelling of fish or smoke. This time there are four fish as opposed to three, a plus in my book.

I put them out over rice, fished out the lemon and "artfully" arranged it over the fish.

As last time, the lemon has had most of its flavor cooked out by the canning process. But I am getting more of an impression of it from the fish this time.

The fish are meaty and reasonably tender. I don't find them dry at all. The salt level is a little on the low side, but adequate. I sprinkled a little furikake over the last fish, and its additional salt I deemed an improvement. It may have even enhanced the lemon flavor somewhat.

Part of my reason for wanting to revisit these was to reassess the Northwestern Pacific variety of sardine. To date, the only brand available to me has been the Wild Planet. Until I can obtain selections of another brand containing them in single quantities, these will have to be the basis for my judgement of the species.

Main Takeaways

Meaty, tender fish
A little saltier might have been better
More smoke flavor this time, but the lemon still needs improvement

If you prefer these Northwestern Pacific sardines, at the price, these are still a good value.

Brand: Wild Planet
Description: Sardines in Extra Virgin Olive Oil with Lemon
Species: Sardinops sagax or melanostictus
Country of Origin: Thailand
Source: FAO61, Northwest Pacific
Skin/Bones: Yes/Yes
Net Wt: 4.4 oz.
Price Range: $3

Maria Organic Tuna Fillets in Light Brine and Thyme-Lemon

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I got these Maria Organic Tuna Fillets in Light Brine and Thyme-Lemon at the same time as some of their spiced sardines, which really liked. I'm afraid this time things would be quite different.

Initial impression upon opening the can: 4/5.

This really looks great. Nice pink skipjack tuna. Substantial chunks of meat. I don't see any actual lemon, but at least there's not an overabundance of thyme.

But here's where things went south. The aroma, and subsequently a taste of the canning liquid, a "light brine", were eerily reminiscent of a certain lemon-scented disinfectant spray. And the disappointment didn't end there.

A taste of the fish revealed the brine had successfully infused the meat with the offending flavoring. I guess that's what brines are supposed to do to meat, though. They're intended to preserve moisture, tenderize and flavor the meat soaked in them.

It Gets Worse

I put the fish out over rice, and cautiously poured a modest amount of the lemon-thyme brine over the meat.

Digging in, I found the pieces hard to separate with a fork. Bite after bite, I couldn't help but remark to myself how utterly dry this tuna was. It was as if the brine and the lemon and thyme had done everything exactly the opposite of what they were supposed to do. And altogether it made this quite possibly some of the worst tuna I've ever eaten.

I could have stopped any time, but I continued to hope the $8.49 wouldn't be a total waste. Rather than throw it out, I thought, "what's the worst some chili crisp can do, now?" So I applied a little of a spicier variety I happened to have on hand. Unbelievably, the lemon disinfectant overtone managed to cut through even still.

I really wanted to like this, primarily based on how impressed I was with the sardines I'd had before. But sorry, no. I also have to wonder if things would have been vastly different had this been packed in olive oil, rather than a brine. Unfortunately, Maria Organic doesn't appear to offer such a combination.

If it matters, this can was packed December 2023 (L345/23). The carton says PT N3531, but the can says PT C2171P.

Main Takeaways

Off-putting aroma and flavor
Very dry tuna
Utter disappointment

Brand: 100 Misterios / Maria Organic
Description: Tuna Fillets in Light Brine and Thyme-Lemon
Species: Katsuamo (Katsuwonus) pelamis (Skipjack)
Country of Origin: Portugal
Source: FAO27, Northeast Atlantic
Skin/Bones: No/No
Net Wt: 4.5 oz.
Price Range: $8-9

Minerva Limited Edition Sardines with Lemon & Thyme

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These Minerva Limited Edition Sardines with Lemon & Thyme came with that initial order from International Loft. I hadn't encountered this particular flavor combination anywhere before. It sounded intriguing. So was the notion of a limited edition. I hoped both together would make for something special.

They are nicely packaged, in a style befitting a premium offering. The can is wrapped in a glossy black paper, then slipped into a sleeve adorned with metallic red and gold graphics.

Initial impression upon opening the can: 4.9/5.

The aroma of the thyme hits you immediately. A sip of the oil is heavy with the flavor of the thyme. The lemon is there, but fighting to peek through. Three big pilchards. I'd hoped they would be smaller, as that usually means a fresher tasting, more tender fish. Ultimately, it wasn't a factor.

Let's Get Into It

Trying to pull fish intact from the can is difficult. They are very tender. An initial bite is melt-in-your-mouth goodness. The little bit of thyme seen in the photo belies the actual content. Underneath, there is a serious amount of thyme, like maybe as much as a half teaspoon (or more?). The olive oil is not listed as EVOO, but is of high quality.

I managed to get them out over rice largely intact. The skin peeled away at the slightest touch. I was surprised to see a few scales.

I poured the rest of the can contents over the fish, wanting to get the full experience. In retrospect, I should have left some (read: most) of the thyme in the can.

As I worked my way through, I noted the lemon still managing to make its presence known. Even through all that thyme, I could taste hints of both the pulp and zest.

I also thought a little more salt might have been in order. It has a way of accentuating other flavors, particularly citrus. Best I can tell, it was a relatively low 107mg.

Main Takeaways

Tender, tasty fish, even though larger than my preference
Too much thyme for the lemon to really shine through
Not enough salt

If I buy these again, I'll definitely leave the excess thyme in the can. The amount included wasn't necessary, and might have actually been a negative, all things considered.

Brand: A Poveira/MInerva
Description: Limited Edition Sardines in Olive Oil w/Lemon & Thyme
Species: Pilchards
Country of Origin: Portugal
Source: FAO27, Northeast Atlantic
Skin/Bones: Yes/Yes
Net Wt: 4.25 oz.
Price Range: $8

Fishwife Albacore Tuna with Spanish Lemon

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I picked up this Fishwife Albacore Tuna with Spanish Lemon about four months ago, and never got around to trying it until now. In fact, I had forgotten I had it, and bought another can while it was on sale again at Whole Foods last week.

Initial impression upon opening the can: 4.8/5.

It's one of those stiff cans you have to battle to get the lid off without making a mess. It's a nice, solid chunk of tuna. The initial aroma is of a mild tuna, but nothing lemony coming through. A sip of the oil is similarly neutral, but with perhaps a hint of lemon. A nibble of fish straight from the can at first seems to just have that tuna tanginess. But then it kind of blooms toward citrus-y.

Prying the meat out of the can, there is no physical lemon to be found. The "lemon" in the ingredient list must be juice or some other form of lemon essence. One part of the meat, an area that was at the bottom of the can, had a bit of a discoloration to it. I wondered if it was the result of contact with whatever the source of the lemon flavor was.

As you can see, visually it just looks like a plain tuna. I dumped the entire liquid content of the can over the fish. I wanted to make sure I got the most of whatever lemon flavor there was to be had.

Getting more into it, though, with each bite it became more apparent the tanginess was from the lemon. I did find myself thinking, however, there wasn't anything overtly Spanish about it, and I might have just supplied my own good quality tuna and some lemon.

Once satisfied I had given it a thorough assessment on its own merits, I decided to experiment a bit. I had a new jar of S&B Crunchy Garlic with Chili Oil I wanted to try. As chili crisp type condiments go, it's a little saltier than most, and I did find it actually enhanced the lemon flavor of the tuna.

Final Thoughts

As quality tuna goes, it has a good flavor that the lemon, however it's achieved, improves. Although it did make me consider just trying to replicate it with my own tuna and lemon.
This would be a good choice for a salad topped with tuna.
When on sale, it's a good value for a premium canned tuna.

Brand: Fishwife
Description: Albacore Tuna with Spanish lemon
Species: Albacore tuna
Country of Origin: Spain
Source: FAO27, Northeast Atlantic
Skin/Bones: No/No
Net Wt: 3.2 oz.
Price Range: $8

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Les Mouettes d’Arvor Sardines with Lemon and Chili Pepper

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These Les Mouettes d'Arvor Sardines with Lemon and Chili Pepper were among the baker's dozen cans I just received. Although my count may be off by one, I'm making them my 100th tin tasted. I'm choosing them because they represent (to me) several unusual characteristics: they're from France, they're unusually spiced, and they're by a brand with which I'm heretofore not familiar.

Initial impression upon opening the can: 4.8/5.

These look nice, albeit the skin is a little torn up. It's one of those shallow cans, so I'm surprised to see six fish. There's no overt aroma. A sip of the oil is neutral and doesn't represent the flavors of the seasonings. The can says extra virgin olive oil, but I wouldn't have guessed it was otherwise. I'm not getting any of the back-of-throat heat I expect from chili pepper. Usually, lemon and chili pepper are mutually exclusive sardine flavorings. Once again, a can of French sardines lists "lemon confit", but this time there is nothing I would consider a confit.

There are some scales, some tails, and some pelvic fins. Perhaps that's common to French pilchard packing processes, or just this cannery, I don't know. The fish lift from the can intact. The meat is a little on the firm side, and with a somewhat dry mouth feel. Working my way through the can, the lemon and pepper are subtle, becoming more evident as I go. The heat is courtesy of one tiny piri-piri. The lemon seems confined to a long, thin strip of lemon skin, giving a more zest-like than a citrus note.

A paper label affixed to the lid side of the can lists all the particulars, even the name of the fishing vessel making the catch. I had to photograph it, since opening the can required tearing it back to access the ring.

The Gonidec family cannery, in business since 1959, is the last one remaining in Concarneau, a major French fishing port.

These weren't bad, overall. But I don't know that I'd buy them again.

Main Takeaways

More fish than expected
Lemon confit just some lemon skin
Not impressive enough to buy again

Available at Amazon. A little pricey there.

Brand: Les Mouettes d'Arvor
Description: Sardines with Lemon and Chili Pepper
Species: Pilchards
Country of Origin: France
Source: FAO27, Northeastern Atlantic
Skin/Bones: Yes/Yes
Net Wt: 4.06 oz.
Price Range: $10

Ferrigno Sardines with Preserved Lemon

DeenLeave a comment

I got these Ferrigno Sardines with Preserved Lemon on a recent trip to World Market. A product of France, they are labeled "Sardine Au Citron Confit". The artwork on the can depicts, for whatever reason, a nun and a gendarme in a Peugeot Deux Chevaux chasing a fish wearing a sunhat and sunglasses driving a convertible roadster.

Initial impression upon opening the can: 4.5/5.

Four pilchards looking a little rough from being stuffed into a shallow can. A sip of the oil is more vegetal than lemon. I see that it is sunflower oil. I check the can to find ingredients listing onions, green olives, oregano and pepper. Oh, and preserved lemon.

A card slipped under the pull ring contains the US English particulars, with the French on the can lid underneath. It indicates these could either be from FAO37 (Mediterranean) or FOA34 (Eastern Central Atlantic), but to check the processing codes printed on the can at time of packing to see which one. These were FAO34, which the card also confirmed.

I pried out one fish, very firm, to try on its own. A very meaty pilchard. In the space left, I see there's a lot going on in the bottom of the can, so I dumped it out over rice.

So, as you can see, there's a lot more than just lemon. Quite a bit of onion, and some green olive slices. The orange bits turned out to be lemon rind.

Digging in, an oregano-laced onion flavor predominates, with a flash of citrus showing up in random bites. The fish are firm and meaty, able to be divided by the pierce of a fork into discrete chunks. Melt-in-your-mouth tender, no, but not bad.

This take on sardine seasoning is interesting, but not what I bought them for. I guess confit should have been a clue there was going to be more than just lemon, and I should have inspected the label more closely.

I don't know that I'd buy these again, considering I was just looking for a lemon-y sardine, but the experience of them was worthwhile.

Main Takeaways

Not the prettiest can of fish, but tender
More onion and oregano than anything else
Lemon flavor lost in the mix

Brand: Ferrigno
Description: Sardines with lemon confit
Species: Sardina pilchardus
Country of Origin: France
Source: FAO34, Eastern Central Atlantic
Skin/Bones: Yes/Yes
Net Wt: 4.05 oz.
Price Range: $7-8