Spain’s vermut (vermouth) culture is a rich, deeply ingrained tradition, especially in cities like Madrid, Barcelona, and Zaragoza. Though vermouth originated in Italy, it found fertile ground in Spain and evolved into a distinct cultural and social phenomenon. Tinned fish and vermut cultures are deeply intertwined. Here's a deep dive into its inception, history, and popularity over time:
What Is Vermut?
"Vermut" in Spain refers to aromatized, fortified wine—typically red and sweet—infused with botanicals such as wormwood, herbs, roots, and spices. Like vermouths made elsewhere, it can be based upon red or white wine.
It’s usually served neat or on the rocks with an olive or an orange slice. It is often accompanied by other elements of Spanish aperitivo culture like conservas, olives, anchovies, or potato chips.
Inception and Early History
✦ Origins in Italy:
- Vermouth was invented in Turin, Italy in the 18th century, likely around 1786 by Antonio Benedetto Carpano.
- It quickly became popular across Europe as an aperitif.
✦ Arrival in Spain (mid to late 19th century):
- Spanish winemakers, particularly in Catalonia, began producing their own vermouths in the mid-to-late 1800s.
- One of the first major Spanish vermouth producers was Martínez Lacuesta, founded in 1895 in Haro, Rioja.
- Catalan producers like Yzaguirre and Perucchi (founded in 1876) helped cement vermouth in local drinking culture.
Growth and Popularity (Early to Mid-20th Century)
✦ The Rise of the “Hora del Vermut”:
- By the 1920s–30s, vermut had become a standard pre-lunch drink, known as la hora del vermut ("vermouth hour").
- It was a social ritual especially popular on Sundays, often shared with friends or family at bodegas, taverns, or bars.
- The tradition fit into broader Mediterranean food culture: drinking slowly, nibbling on snacks, and savoring conversation.
✦ Working-Class Roots:
- Vermut culture developed as a working-class custom: affordable, unpretentious, and local.
- Most bars had homemade, barrel-aged vermouth (vermut de grifo) on tap.
Decline (1970s–1990s)
- By the late 20th century, vermouth lost ground to beer, wine, and soft drinks, especially among younger generations.
- The rise of international spirits, like whiskey and vodka, also shifted habits.
- Vermouth became associated with an older generation and was increasingly seen as outdated.
Revival & Renaissance (2000s–Present)
A Cultural Comeback:
- Starting in the early 2000s, vermut made a hipster-inflected resurgence, especially in Barcelona and Madrid.
- Young Spaniards began to rediscover traditional bars, vintage branding, and local flavors.
- Artisanal and boutique producers returned, reviving old recipes or experimenting with new botanicals.
Vermuterías & Modern Bars:
- Bars devoted entirely to vermouth—called vermuterías—started popping up again.
- In places like El Chigre 1769 (Barcelona) or La Hora del Vermut (Madrid), vermut became fashionable, not just nostalgic.
Craft and Regional Styles:
- Producers began offering dry, white, or aged vermouths.
- Local wineries in Galicia, Andalusia, and Valencia also got into the game.
Cultural Significance Today
- The hora del vermut is thriving again, especially on weekends in urban centers.
- It retains its ritualistic, social function: pre-meal, low-alcohol, and paired with salty snacks (tapas or aperitivos).
- It also forms part of festivals and family gatherings, blending tradition with trendiness.
- Its fans note that it is rarely consumed at home or outside of social gatherings.
Notable Brands in Spain
- Perucchi (Barcelona, 1876): Spain’s oldest vermouth producer.
- Yzaguirre (Reus, Catalonia): A classic with many variations.
- Martínez Lacuesta (Rioja): Known for its barrel-aged vermouth.
- Vermut Zarro (Madrid): Popular in the capital and among younger drinkers.
- Casa Mariol (Terra Alta): Known for its modern branding and traditional taste.
Key Takeaways
- Spanish vermut culture is distinct from Italian or French styles: often sweeter, more rustic, and deeply regional.
- It experienced a rise → decline → revival cycle.
- Today it blends old-school charm with modern mixology and is considered one of Spain’s quintessential drinks.